Silk Aba

North Africa

19th century

Victoria and Albert Museum

Cotton, silk, metal-wrapped threads

This is a tapestry woven vest (aba) with cotton warps and geometric patterning in blue, green, pink, white, and metal-wrapped silk threads. It consists of two panels (each a full width), seamed together horizontally. The top panel is seamed at the shoulder and arm holes have been cut out. Both panels are heavily patterned, and the pattern continues across the central seam, demonstrating they were woven simultaneously for this purpose. The primary pattern is rows of blue and white and green and white diamonds on a pink background. There are large fields of the metallic thread on both shoulders and on the back.

The opening and bottom hem are finished on the interior with a silk needle-braided edging. The central and shoulder seams are decorated with purple and white/metallic silk cordages.  At the shoulder, these have been gathered to create a scalloped finish.

The interior of the opening along the hem is further decorated using plain weave silk appliques in green, blue, and pink.

Condition Before Treatment

The aba was in good condition overall with minor areas of damage in the back body that had been previously repaired and areas of failed stitching at the shoulder. The textile was covered with gray surface grime, with significantly more surface grime on the back.

Condition After Treatment

The aba is in improved structural and aesthetic condition. Overall grime was significantly reduced. The shoulder seam was lined to provide support during mounting.

The aba is now mounted on a T-bar with one edge held open with magnets to display the interior applique.